Archive for the ‘Reviews’ Category

Update on those bits…

I spent saturday last building my new singlespeed wheel. It was REALLY easy considering the measurements were the same from mid-flange on both right and left sides. One spoke length makes life a LOT easier.

So there you have it. Sorry about the lack of updates. I’ve been a bit under the weather and otherwise busy. Once I have the matching front wheel built, I’ll take them out for an inaugural spin. Hopefully these (along with the new cranks/bottom bracket I’m installing for SS use) will help me get a good bit of my old fitness back come spring. Until then, I’m on the trainer in front of the T.V.

—me.

More bits

This time around, we have a rear hub for DJ/Street, what have you. I got this to build up with my Halo Freedom 29′er rims for a set of singlespeed wheels. I haven’t built them up yet, but here are the specs and some info about it.

Last bikes ZAKK hub comes with the following :

The ZAKK rear cassette hub is made of 6061 and 7075 aluminum with an oversized axle and 10 mm CrMo bolts. The driver is a one piece construction made of super strong 7075 aluminum and features 6 double pawls. The one piece driver construction allows us to use bigger bearings in the driver. We use two 15×28x7 mm oversize bearings that have a static load rating of 2240 Newton and a dynamic load rating of 4360 Newton. This is more than 200% compared to bearings used by other companies in their single speed drivers. The result is a dramatically increased life time for the driver bearings. The flanges are spaced symmetrically 35,5 mm from the center line for similar spoke tension on both sides. This gives you a stronger and more balanced wheel. The big diameter of the axle cups gives you a rigid interface with the dropouts. Besides this we took off all unnecessary weight, which leads to a total weight of 449 g (11T), 450 g (12T) and 457 g (14T). These weights include steel bolts. The hub is designed to work with 3/8″ wide chains, 135 mm dropout spacing and comes in 32 and 36 spoke hole versions.

So If you can restrict yourself to an 11,12 or 14 tooth rear, and have weight issues of the non-titanium type, (read : like beer, hate exercise…) this might be the rear hub for you. I’ll let you know how it works out for me.

—me.

Wheels

Possibly the second most important part of your bike, after the frame/fork combo. (These are all my opinions, but it is my bleaurgh, so deal with it…) I ordered a set of On-One wheels (on sale, ‘natch.) this summer, and have run them for the last few months. I can safely say these wheels rock! The Centrelock system which I had not much more than a heaping load of disdain for, has grown on me. (more on that later.) Built on their Reetard rim, these wheels are true light and none more black. I love them. Not much else to say really.

And yes, I did order them with the Small Block 8’s and they are spectacular. No need for a super-high profile tire here in Munich. Along the Isar on my lazy 60km route, I encounter mostly loose over hardpack with a small bit of asphalt and maybe some packed singletrack thrown in. Not much goo here, nor is there a lot of deep loam. (Not what I’d call deep anyhow.) Moving from my Larsen TT’s on my 26′in MTB, these were a natural follow-up. Long wearing and sticky enough to give me confidence at speed. I also tend to run most of my tires at more-than-silly pressures like 35-40 depending. It makes for a harsher ride sometimes, but also much smoother on the loose-over-hard stuff I encounter most of the time.

As for the  Centrelock system… Well, It was one of those experiences where I proved that I was nothing more than retarded. I popped them out of the box, and got to installing them. I forgot when I ordered them that they were the other system, so I set about running to every bike shop I could to see about getting rotors. I have a real problem with patience. So every place I looked, the system looked different than what I had. “Those bastards at On-One sent me wheels with an older version of the Centrelock system… Now I’m pissed…” I thought.

Well, I finally went to Radsport-Roesch. These guys are officially my go-to guys. Friendly, knowledgeable and patient with my broken German… everything I need when buying parts. The guy behind the counter listened to my dilemma and reassured me there was only one system, unless I had a 20mm front hub, and then it’s basically the same, jsut… well… 20mm.

I informed him that I had some strange system and wasn’t about to drop 50 euros on the wrong rotor. He said “If it’s wrong, bring it back and we’ll figure it out. You can bring in the wheels too, if you want.”

“Too much trouble, and besides… I want to ride them NOW ! ! !” I said.

He laughed and we got everything sorted.

The reason I was confused was when they ship, the Centrelock bit (where the rotor slides on…) was 1)-covered with some super-stuck rubber grommet and 2)- is removeable. As in, you unscrew the lock ring (much like a rear hub/cassette lock ring) and the whole thing slides off the hub. Which is pretty genuis, actually. No need to remove rotors when travelling. Just take this bit off and voilá. Easy-peasy. The hubs then look like (ironically…) a rear hub that is waiting for a cassette to slide on. So it turns out I’m an idiot and spent the better part of a gorgeous Saturday looking for Centrelock rotors with a completely different system.

Anyhow, they are stiff enough for me, and were a great price for a wheelset with tires and tubes. Can’t really go wrong with that, eh?

—me.

New Bits

I have some new bits for my bikes that I want to share with you. First up is a NC17 seat post. It’s not the lightest thing out there, but as I am a respectable hunk over the 200-lb mark, light ain’t on the menu for the most part. What I like is the unlimited adjustability of it. It is replacing a Thompson seat post with no setback and limited adjustability. Have a look.

So the rails of your saddle set nicely where those two tube-things are and it fits both 8 and 9mm rails. (I”m still thinking of a use for them. Any ideas are welcome…) The silver nut below the rails controls how far forward or back your saddle sits. The two underneath the ‘butt’ of the saddle hold it firmly in place, while loosening them allows the saddle to be tilted up or down in incredibly small increments with the big red knob. (1-degree, I believe.) Get it to where you want it, then tighten it all down and you’re ready to roll.

What I like most about it, it it fits 3 of my bikes and with it’s adjustability, it allows me to have one post for all 3, and with a small amount of fiddling, I can have my Brooks saddle always under my fat, slow ass. Isn’t that special?

—me.

(More updates later as I start logging miles on it.)

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